Cambridge A Level Design and Textiles 9631 — 2018 Oct/Nov Paper 1 · Variant 0

* 6 6 3 0 0 5 7 8 7 8 * This document consists of 4 printed pages and 1 Insert. DC (SR) 145745/3 © UCLES 2018 [Turn over Cambridge International Examinations Cambridge International Advanced Subsidiary and Advanced Level DESIGN AND TEXTILES 9631/01 Paper 1 Fibres, Fabrics and Design October/November 2018 2 hours No Additional Materials are required. READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST An answer booklet is provided inside this question paper. You should follow the instructions on the front cover of the answer booklet. If you need additional answer paper ask the invigilator for a continuation booklet. Answer three questions in total. Section A Answer both questions. Section B Answer one question. Illustrate your answers with clear, well-spaced and labelled diagrams. You may, if you wish, use the silhouette on page 4 to produce outlines for your sketches. Place the silhouette under a sheet of paper in the answer booklet and trace the outline in pencil. The number of marks is given in brackets [ ] at the end of each question or part question.

2 9631/01/O/N/18 © UCLES 2018 Section A Answer both questions. 1 (a) Give a definition of the following: (i) weft knitting [2] (ii) warp knitting [2] (b) Explain briefly the production methods used for weft knitting. [4] (c) Compare the performance characteristics of warp and weft knitted fabrics in terms of: • stretch characteristics • yarn suitability. [8] (d) Discuss why warp knitted fabrics rather than woven fabrics might be used for uniforms and workwear. Include specific examples of warp knitted fabrics in your answer. [9] [Total: 25 marks] 2 Many factors influence the selection of fabrics for clothing. (a) (i) Identify three regenerated cellulose fibres. [3] (ii) Describe the source of each of the fibres identified in (a)(i). [3] (iii) Identify one fabric made from each of the fibres identified in (a)(i). [3] (b) Compare four performance characteristics of polyester fibres with the characteristics of regenerated cellulose fibres. [8] (c) Discuss the possible end uses of woven polyester fabrics. [8] [Total: 25 marks]

3 9631/01/O/N/18 © UCLES 2018 Section B Answer one question. 3 Fashion styles for clothing are always changing. (a) Explain three influences which can lead to changes in fashion styles. [6] (b) Explain what is meant by the term ‘fashion revival’. Give specific examples in your answer. [4] (c) Explain how the shape of ladies’ skirts has evolved, giving examples from the designers you have studied. You may include sketches in your answer. [6] (d) Discuss how the style of ladies’ skirts has been influenced by new developments of fibres and fabrics over the years. [9] [Total: 25 marks] 4 There are many processes involved in clothing manufacture. (a) Explain what is meant by the following processes used in large scale clothing manufacture: (i) spreading [2] (ii) cutting [2] (b) Explain two methods that manufacturers use to mark fabric ready for sewing. [4] (c) Compare the two methods below as ways in which designs/patterns are transferred to fabrics: • traditional hand methods • using computer aided design [8] (d) Discuss the stages involved in garment pattern-making in industry with reference to production/manufacturing methods. [9] [Total: 25 marks]

4 9631/01/O/N/18 © UCLES 2018 Permission to reproduce items where third-party owned material protected by copyright is included has been sought and cleared where possible. Every reasonable effort has been made by the publisher (UCLES) to trace copyright holders, but if any items requiring clearance have unwittingly been included, the publisher will be pleased to make amends at the earliest possible opportunity. To avoid the issue of disclosure of answer-related information to candidates, all copyright acknowledgements are reproduced online in the Cambridge International Examinations Copyright Acknowledgements Booklet. This is produced for each series of examinations and is freely available to download at www.cie.org.uk after the live examination series. Cambridge International Examinations is part of the Cambridge Assessment Group. Cambridge Assessment is the brand name of University of Cambridge Local Examinations Syndicate (UCLES), which is itself a department of the University of Cambridge.